r< 

. 

TWIpff 


I,  Observe  the  Time,  and  Fly  from  Evil,” 
is  the  scriptural  injunction  chased  intaglio 
immediately  beneath  the  large  dial,  and 
lends  grace  and  ornament  as  well  as  use¬ 
fulness  to  the  plain  Gothic  tower  which  lifts 
edifice  known  as  old  St.  Mary’s  Cathe¬ 
dral.  It  has  worn  well  during  the 
||^  forty  and  odd  years  of  exposure 
which  have  elapsed  since  first  erected, 
f "  and,  as  of  old,  greets  the  traveler  of  to-day  in  the 
shimmering  moonlight,  at  high  noon,  or  misty  dawn,  as  he 
seeks  entrance  at  the  main  thoroughfare  leading  into  that 
quarter  where  chance  has  contrived  to  bring  together  a  repre¬ 
sentative  congress,  as  it  were,  of  Mongolian  individuality  and 
character. 

Years  ago,  and  before  the  advent  of  the  Mongol  to  these 
shores,  such  an  inscription  was  deemed  timely,  for  it  was  in 
this  immediate  section  that  the  motley  gathering  of  adventurous 
spirits  held  high  revel,  and  formed  the  nucleus  of  the  extended 
population. 

Within  a  few  minutes'  walk  from  the  leading  hotels  and 
center  of  commerce,  the  traveler  will  arrive  at  one  of  the  many 
entrances  to  Chinatown.  “What  a  transition!”  It  is  not  easy, 


perhaps  it  is  not  possible,  wholly  to  realize,  as  we  drift  along 
the  busy  stream  of  Oriental  life,  that  we  have  not  been  translated 
to  a  strange  land.  Buildings  have  been  evolved,  and  others 
shaped  out  of  semblance  to  their  original  design,  wherever  and 
whenever  possible,  with  pagan  architecture  and  imagery.  It  is 
here  and  there  only  that  portions  of  solid  masonry  remain  which 
have  defied  the  sons  of  Confucius  to  mar;  and  some  solemn 
griffin,  or  gargoyle  carving,  is  yet  imbedded  beneath  cornice, 
or  gracing  some  Corinthian  colonnade,  as  if  looking  down  in 
apparent  sadness  at  its  own  strange  environment,  reminding  us 
that  but  a  comparatively  brief  period  has  elapsed  since  dwelt 
here  those  hardy  pioneers  whose  bending  forms  are  only  occa¬ 
sionally  seen  visiting  the  old  haunts,  rich  in  pathetic  and  tragical 
episodes  and  heroic  deeds  of  a  half  century  ago. 

Here  the  visitor  is  apt  to  regard  the  encroachment  which 
the  Chinese  have  made  on  the  acreage  of  this  section  of  the 
city  as  an  interesting  phenomenon,  from  a  single  primitive 
“  wash-house,”  erected  as  a  necessity  on  Portsmouth  Square, 
now  known  as  the  Plaza,  until  this  quarter  now  comprises  over 
fifteen  blocks  of  houses,  wholly  within  the  city  limits,  and 
wherein,  as  near  as  can  be  computed,  about  fifty  thousand 
Chinese  reside  and  do  business,  and,  like  the  glacier  of  the 
north,  still  spreads  and  moves  on.  Fortunately,  the  salt  ocean 


1 


C*v«tv. 


'?Kvnu.  ovn\  v  C»^M.Sl  VK»v«>»« 


-  tfr/Ky  f  i.p+ipii 


V 


V  r 


\ 


-  *  4 


breeze  sweeps  over  it,  and  the  terraced  condi¬ 
tion  of  this  quarter  renders  drainage  a  natural 
condition  as  well  as  a  scientific  achievement. 

Among  Oriental  nations,  pagan  and  christian¬ 
ized,  the  commercial  instinct  is  strongly  developed. 
As  our  tourist  strolls  along  the  main  thorough¬ 
fare,  with  its  lines  of  bazaars,  the  picturesqueness 
of  which  is  enhanced  by  elegantly  decorated  silk 
embroideries  and  draperies  temptingly  displayed 
for  sale,  ebony-carved  cabinets  rich  in  design 
and  ornamentation,  and  fit  to  hold  the  wealth 
of  “  Ormus  and  of  Ind,”  bronzes,  cloisonne  ware 
and  many  other  objects  of  exquisite  beauty  and 
workmanship  meet  the  eye;  and,  with  a  constant 
stream  of  tourists  from  all  parts  of  the  world 
daily  visiting  this  mecca,  he  realizes  that  there  is 
an  active  participation  of  the  busy  scenes  of  life 
going  on  here,  notwithstanding  its  antique  and 
Oriental  aspect. 

If  the  service  of  a  guide  has  not  been  pro¬ 
cured  at  the  hotel,  you  will  not  be  lost  in  the 
tangled  maze  of  narrow  streets  and  dubious 
labyrinth  of  bad-smelling  alleyways,  for  the 


denizens  of  this  quarter  thoroughly  appreciate  the  desire  which 
prevails  to  penetrate  and  investigate  the  inner  life  of  their 
people.  Solicitations  are  made,  at  every  crossing,  to  guide  and 
conduct  you  to  the  various  shrines  and  objects  of  curiosity 
which  abound  here ;  they  seem  to  alight  on  the  pilgrim  intuitively, 
and  vie  with  each  other  in  an  exaggeration  of  promises  rarely 
fulfilled.  It  is  delightful  to  watch  the  tactics  of  these  subtle 
fellows, — the  ingenious  harangue,  their  skill  in  unmasking  the 
stranger,  their  epigrammatic  rendition  of  the  sights  to  be  seen. 
They  learn  each  other’s  tricks  and  the  usual  line  of  approach  in 
dealing  with  a  “  tenderfoot  ”  or  European  tourist.  A  wily 
looking  fellow  approached  us  one  evening,  and,  after  delivering 
the  usual  prelude  to  excite  our  curiosity,  actually  showed  us  a 
glimpse  of  his  return  certificate,  issued  by  the  powers  that  be 
at  the  Custom  House,  and,  with  a  suavity  and  blandness  of 
manner  really  amusing,  assured  us  that  it  was  a  special  license 
granted  to  ply  his  vocation  as  guide,  for  services  rendered  to 
the  Government.  “All  Melica  man  know  Charlie;  heep  good 
guide  1  Twenty-six  years  Chinatown  1  ”  It  is  perhaps  superfluous 
to  state  that,  with  few  exceptions,  they  are  adept  in  all  guileful 
arts,  crafty,  knavish  and  suspicious. 

Stroll  where  you  will  you  meet  on  every  side  evidences  of 
another  and  departed  regime,  and  find  curious  studies,  many  of 


Chinese  £lave  Girl 


\r 


“  On  the  Layout.” 

(U)l)ere  tl)e  Deadly  Migd)l>inder  Molds  l*orti).) 


* 

"  . 


. 


- 


. 


^lave  (iirls  in  Tt)eir  Quarters. 


/' 


which  are  calculated  to  amuse  and  instruct 
the  traveler,  for  the  personality  of  this 
concourse  of  people  is  difficult  to  describe 
and  analyze.  One  must  be  brought  into  actual  touch 
to  appreciate  the  varied  character  found  here,  the  variety 
of  things  to  admire  and  to  wonder  at,  others  to  ponder  over, 
and  all  of  them  interesting.  It  does  not  seem  possible  that  you 
can  stroll  block  after  block  without  encountering  a  single  Christian 
place  of  business  in  this  quarter,  yet  so  it  is.  You  will  wonder 
how  and  why  there  has  been  such  a  transfiguration  in  this 
heritage  ;  you  will  realize,  however,  by  the  compass  of  your  stroll, 
that  you  are  obtaining  a  visit  to  China  without  being  obliged  to 
cross  the  Pacific,  or  wrestle  with  that  much-dreaded  monster, 
seasickness.  You  will  investigate  narrow,  serpentine  passages 
under  ground  and  above  ground,  to  unfathom  which  it  will  be 
necessary  to  have  an  experienced  and  trustworthy  guide ;  you 

will  review  scores  of  opium  joints  beneath  stained  and 

\ 

cobwebbed  frescoes,  and  hear  the  click  of  the  domino  in  the 
game  of  pi-gou  as  you  pass  the  broad  but  scarred  and  battered 
portal  of  what  was  once  some  stately  dwelling ;  you  will  meet 
at  intervals  athletic  looking  officials  in  disguise,  reconnoitering 


up  some  dark,  foul-smelling,  tortuous  passage,  or  escalading 
some  perilous  roof  to  cut  off  the  retreat  from  a  game  of  fan 
tan,  or  sup  choy,  in  full  blast  in  the  vicinity,  and  the  approach 
to  which  is  guarded  by  an  array  of  formidable  barriers  and 
sesames,  as  only  the  cunning  Chinese  can  develop  or  their 
ingenuity  create. 

At  a  prominent  corner  near  the  farther  end  of  the  main 
thoroughfare,  you  will  find  a  building,  the  history  of  which  dates 
back  half  a  century  ago,  now  a  ruined  pile  of  weather-beaten 
brick.  Neither  its  interior  nor  exterior  has  felt  the  touch  of 
brush  or  trowel  for  many,  many  years.  The  work  of  subjugation 
has  been  done,  and  this  ancient,  crumbling,  interesting  landmark 
known  as  the  Globe  Hotel  now  shelters  the  flotsam  and  jetsam 
of  Chinatown.  Everything  is  steeped  to  the  lips  in  the  spirit 
of  paganism,  and  by  its  exterior  only  do  we  recognize  the 
features  and  individualities  of  days  dead  and  gone.  Its  four 
stories  lift  up,  row  upon  row  of  carved  and  highly  elaborated 
pediments;  and  from  its  upper  windows  the  belfric  towers  of 
St.  Francis  of  Assissium,  and  the  spires  of  Senora  de  Guadaloupe, 
at  the  northern  extremity  of  this  quarter,  are  plainly  visible, 
whilst  Mount  Tamalpais  may  be  viewed  across  the  Bay  in  a 
warp  of  woven  sunshine,  guarding,  sentinel-like,  the  approach 
to  the  entrance  of  the  Golden  Gate,  and  sheltering  the  flower 


* 


3"^  A  decked  homes  of  Sausalito  and 

San  Rafael;  and  farther  away  to 
the  right,  and  beneath  the  deserted  citadel  at  the 
summit  of  Telegraph  Hill,  the  Straits  of  Carquinez 
glisten  like  a  silver  bar  in  the  morning  light;  and  the 
majestic  double  head  of  Mount  Diablo  lifts  in  hazy 
distance  from  the  purple  maze  and  tender  tints  which  embosom 
thejovely  stretch  of  landscape  called  the  Ignacio  Valley;  and 
in  the  history  of  this  once  important  structure  is  found  the 
record  of  feud  and  strife,  love  and  romance,  of  the  ever-shifting 
scenes  enacted  in 


“  The  days  of  old, 

The  days  of  gold, 

The  days  of  ’Forty-nine.” 


Not  less  interesting,  and  not  far  from  this  corner,  is  a  ruined 
portal,  conspicuous  in  the  fact  that  here  resided  Madam  Ah  Toy, 
the  first  Chinese  woman  to  grace  these  shores  with  her 
presence.  She  was  evidently  a  lady  of  wealth  and  high  caste, 
of  rare  attainments,  simple  sincerity,  and  of  intellect  keen  and 
discriminating,  gifted  with  uncommon  foresight,  and  at  whose 
receptions  and  levees  the  ecclesiastical  and  political  savant  of 
the  hour  would  meet,  and  at  whose  tea  parties  it  was  considered 

e 

a  rare  privilege  and  honor  to  be  invited.  It  was  her  influence 
that  prompted  the  then  resident  Chinese  to  accept  the  invitation 


to  actively  participate  in  the  ceremonies,  held  with  such  eclat,  to 
commemorate  the  admission  of  California  into  the  Union,  in 
i8$o.  This  must  be  regarded  as  particularly  noteworthy.  The 
thinness  of  population  and  smallness  of  trade  at  that  time,  allied 
to  the  isolated  locality  of.  San  Francisco,  rendered  every  effort  to 
open  up  foreign  trade  a  desideratum;  and  many  propositions 
were  entertained  that  would  lead  to  more  extended  commercial 
relations  with  the  Orient;  so  it  was  especially  by  our  own 
solicitation  that  we  have  now  safely  harbored  here  the  active, 
competing  foreign  element  which  has  created  so  much  discussion 
and  argument  on  the  political  horizon,  and  upon  whom  it  has 
been  considered  necessary  for  our  well-being  to  levy  the 
Restriction  Act,  now  so  called. 

I  had  always  a  desire  to  visit  this  spot,  and  shall  never 
forget  my  first  impression  of  this  quarter.  It  has  been  my 
privilege  since  then  to  visit  it  again  and  again,— I  might  say, 
almost  to  reside  there;  and,  in  the  light  of  what  has  been  revealed 
to  me  through  many  later  observations,  I  consider  it  was  a  rare 
opportunity  that  permitted  the  witnessing  of  a  spectacle  which 
no  subsequent  picture  has  approached,  either  in  color  or 
arrangement. 

It  was  in  February,  and  the  rain  which  had  been  deluging 
the  land  had  abated  near  midnight.  The  Feast  of  Lanterns  was 


Tbe  Mousing  of  a  Pagan  God 


on  the  programme,  and  the  housing 
of  the  Pagan  Deities,  a  ceremony 
of  rare  occurrence,  was  to  be  con¬ 
summated  that  evening.  It  was  with  the  expec¬ 
tation  of  seeing  something  new  and  strange 
in  aspect  that  induced  me  to  wend  my  way 
through  the  damp  and  deserted  avenues  of 
approach,  while  dark,  lowering  rainclouds  threat¬ 
ened  ominously  overhead.  We  ascended  the 
tower  of  old  St.  Mary’s  Cathedral,  situated  at 
the  first  terrace-rising,  and  from  its  summit 
'the  mellow  tint  which  welled  up  against  the  black,  starless 
background  melted  away  in  the  tremulous  wide  scene  of 
ten  thousand  more  of  decorated,  lighted  lanterns,  strung  in 
graceful  abandon  from  column  portal  and  balcony,  down  the 
gradual  incline,  and  as  slowly  rising  again  until  the  farther 
extremity  of  this  undulating  perspective  was  reached,  terrace 
upon  terrace  lifted  out  from  this  central  line,  illuminating  in 
turn  myriads  of  window  gardens,  gilded  oriels  and  arabesque 
balconies.  The  undulating  character  of  the  land  lent  additional 
beauty  to  this  fairy-like  panorama.  I  could  hardly  restrain  my 
delight ;  it  was  so  unlike  anything  I  had  ever  seen  before. 
Whilst  enjoying  this  midnight  feast  there  slowly  entered  upon 


the  main  avenue  a  procession  heralded  by  an  orchestra  of 
clashing  cymbals,  unmusical  tom-toms,  and  gaily  decked  fiddlers, 
followed  by  a  retinue  of  priests  in  long,  showy  silken  robes 
and  bright  vestments,  who  alternately  chanted,  with  peculiar 
intonation  and  inflation,  mystic  “canzoni”  or  sacred  lays,  which 
tradition  tells  us  were  sung  two  thousand  years  before  the 
Christian  era.  The  aristocracy  of  wealth  were  there  in  royal 
habiliments,  each  representative  carrying  frames  of  burning 
punks  and  brass  talismans ;  and  high  upon  a  gorgeous,  sculp¬ 
tured  throne,  which  was  borne  by  forty  or  more  men  in  fantastic 
garb,  sat  in  stoic  indifference,  beneath  flaunting  dragons,  the 
divinities  of  the  heathen  pantheon,  amid  a  wealth  of  tinsel  and 
elaborate  gildings. 

This  procession  came  up  the  main  thoroughfare,  and,  as  it 
traversed  again  and  became  lost  to  view,  it  seemed  from  my 
dizzy  height  more  like  a  dreamy  symphonic  arrangement  of 
color  than  the  actual  presentment  of  an  Oriental  ceremony 
enacted  within  the  framing  of  these  historic  precincts. 

We  now  enter  a  short  street  rich  in  reminiscences ;  here  the 
first  residence  was  built;  and  we  immediately  come  to  a  charm¬ 
ing  study  of  a  dwelling  with  a  corinthian  colonnade  supporting 
a  balcony  of  odd  design  in  rich  translucent  green,  peculiarly 
Chinese.  It  is  unusually  well  preserved  for  this  quarter,  and 


f 


«= 


'1 

Kitchen  to  (Chinatown)  44  Palace  Motel.” 


(V 


is  pointed  out  as  once  the  residence  of 
a  prominent  member  of  the  vigilance 
committee  which  operated  here  with  such  crushing 

force  in  the  suppression  of  the  lawless  bandits  who 

0 

wished  to  overthrow  rule  and  order  in  18^6.  It  is  now 
devoted  to  the  use  of  one  of  the  many  Chinese  benevolent 
societies  as  a  pantheon,  and  is  regarded  as  one  of  the 
sights  of  this  quarter.  Its  upper  floors  enshrine  the  Gods, 
while  suspended  in  boxes  along  the  corridors  are  numbers 
of  deified  warriors,  heroes  and  sages,  in  attitudes  as  if 
trampling  victorious  over  some  prostrate  foe ;  while  concealed 
springs  cause  them  automatically  to  flourish  javelins  and  other 
warlike  weapons  of  cruel  design.  Semi-annual  banquets  are 

X 

served  here  to  the  promoters  of  the  association,  and  on  these 
occasions,  from  an  improvised  niche,  the  usual  orchestra  accom¬ 
pany  from  midday  until  midnight  a  sort  of  recitative,  relieved 
at  intervals  with  a  sforzando  movement  that  creates  din  sufficient 
to  raise  the  firmament ;  while  the  admiring  canaille  read  from 
large  paper  curtains  of  deep  vermilion  dye,  hanging  outside,  the 
names  of  the  contributors  and  their  respective  donations  to  this 
association,  and  of  the  evil  spirits  that  have  been  controlled 
under  their  incantations  and  exorcisms.  The  terrifying  effigies 
of  two  of  these  devils  are  placed  on  high  and  exposed  to  view, 


)  • 

and  made  to  face  the  rising  sun  every  morning  during  ceremonial 
week.  When  adequate  expiation  has  been  made,  and  they  have 
been  sufficiently  rebuked  in  this  novel  manner,  by  comparison 
to  the  orb  of  day,  they  are  forcibly  projected  at  midnight  from 
the  balcony  above  to  the  street  pavement,  where  the  exorcist  or 
devil-killer  works  for  several  hours,  with  numerous  curses, 
written  in  red  ink  upon  yellow  paper,  which  he  then  burns  on 
a  porcelain  plate,  and  the  ashes  stirred  into  a  cup  of  water. 
With  his  mouth  filled  with  this  holy  water,  a  trident  in  one 
hand,  and  in  the  other  an  engraved  bit  of  wood,  weighty  with 
virtue  for  the  overthrow  of  these  demons  that  vex  the  good 
Chinaman’s  peace  and  happiness,  he  stamps  around,  thrusting 
and  brandishing  his  trident,  holding  aloft  his  magic  wand, 
spurting  water  from  his  mouth  in  every  direction,  commanding 
the  devils  in  his  loudest  voice  to  depart,  yelling  and  howling 
until  the  first  streak  of  light  breaks  the  horizon,  when  these 
effigies  are  incinerated  with  additional  hubbub  and  their  ashes 
scattered  from  brazen  vessels  to  the  morning  breeze. 

Each  succeeding  decade  has  given  this  street  additional 
history.  It  was  originally  called  Calle  de  las  Rosas,  in  honor 
of  its  many  rose-covered  cottages.  From  here  the  pioneers 
viewed  with  delight  the  illumined  tips  of  Telegraph  and  Russian 
hills,  which  augured  the  sighting  of  some  expected  ship  that 


/ 


would  bring  them  again  in  touch  with  distant  hearts  after  many 
months  of  weary  and  anxious  waiting ;  for  the  waters  yet  ebbed 
and  flowed  at  Montgomery  Street,  and  the  deep  golden  esch- 
scholtzia,  nature’s  floral  beacon  and  emblem  of  the  illimitable 
wealth  in  this  el  dorado,  was  not  yet  shorn  nor  ruthlessly 
riven  from  its  native  bed  in  the  sand  dunes  above  in  the  rush 
for  greed  and  gain  which  subsequently  followed. 

A  decade  later  and  these'  delightful  and  cherished  homes 
were  subjected  to  a  transformation  :  a  reign  of  the  demi-monde 
was  inaugurated,  and  the  name  of  Pike  Street  was  substituted  for 
the  euphonious  Calle  de  las  Rosas.  Under  this  baneful  regime  its 
notoriety  soon  echoed  to  the  base  of  the  Rockies.  There  are 
associated  with  this  era  many  sensational  episodes  of  good 
deeds  and  heinous  crimes.  Particularly  characteristic 
*  and  worthy  of  repetition  is  that  story  where  the 

^  “soul  of  goodness  is  mixed  with  things  evil,”  and 
which  has  but  recently  reached  its  final 
\iWj  tableau,  after  the  curtain  had  been  rung 
down  and  the  dramatis  personas  had  left 
the  stage  of  action  five  and  thirty  years  ago. 
It  is  told  that  the  young  and  beautiful  daughter  of 
a  wealthy  Parisian,  who  had  loved,  “  not  wisely, 
—  t>ut  too  well,”  and  had  to  flee  the  paternal 


wrath,  made  her  advent  in  ’Frisco  when  the  gold  fever  was  at 
its  zenith.  Her  youth,  extraordinary  beauty  and  dashing  style 
created  much  admiration,  and,  being  a  person  in  fine,  with 
natural  and  acquired  tastes  and  propensities,  she  readily  obtained 
an  entree  into  the  best  society  of  that  day.  With  a  charm  of 
manner  rivaled  only  by  the  accomplishments  of  her  mind,  she 
successfully  essayed  the  role  of  an  adventuress,  and  by  her 
wily  intrigues  soon  amassed  a  small  fortune.  Her  true  character 
being  revealed,  she  was  soon  forsaken,  and  drifted  to  this  street, 
where  she  plunged  into  a  career  of  reckless  abandon. 

The  finding  of  her  body  in  the  ransacked  boudoir  of  her 
dwelling,  with  the  imprint  of  a  brawny  hand  upon  her  delicate 
neck,  plainly  told  its  story,  and  was  the  sensation  of  the  day. 
Her  male  associate  was  held,  and  the  evidence,  although  purely 
circumstantial,  seemed  incriminatory,  when  another  deed,  simi¬ 
larly  perpetrated,  for  the  same  purpose  and  upon  a  like 
character,  was  discovered  in  the  valley  of  the  Sacramento  River. 

No  direct  clue  was  unearthed  to  either  of  these  atrocities 
until,  at  one  of  those  Bohemian  socials  so  prevalent  in  that 
early  day,  there  was  lost,  and  found,  a  diamond  bracelet,  on 
the  reverse  side  of  which  was  chased  this  inscription: 

A  notre  fille, 

[Marie  ‘Battier. 


Com  C®^  Aliev. 

(From  Pencil  .Slsetcf).) 


n 


* 


/////<  / 


It  was  a  souvenir  from  the  parents 
of  the  unfortunate  Parisienne  on  attain¬ 
ing  her  majority ;  it  was  returned  to  the 
claimant,  a  lady,  who  little  dreamt  that 
in  establishing  her  right  to  this  cluster 
of  diamonds  she  had  unconsciously 
raised  the  curtain  upon  the  participants 
of  this  drama,  and  exposed  to  view  the 
perpetrator  of  both  of  these  crimes,  and 
who  was  none  other  than  her  own 
husband.  The  arrested  consort  of  the  Parisienne  was  released 
and  soon  after  reached  Paris,  where  he  succeeded  in  obtaining 
possession  of,  and  lived  in  fine  style  upon,  the  income  of  his 
dead  mistress’  property,  to  the  exclusion  of  the  child  she  had  left 
behind,  and  for  whose  education  and  welfare  she  had  sacrificed 
her  honor  and  very  life. 

During  all  this  time  San  Francisco  was  undergoing  its 
wonderful  transformation :  the  city  was  spreading  beyond  the 
hills ;  the  old-fashioned  little  cottages,  and  the  mountain  goats 
that  browsed  around  the  flinty  heights  of  Nob  Hill,  were 
disturbed  by  the  advent  of  the  cable  car ;  magnificent  and 
palatial  mansions  were  being  erected  thereon,  and  what  was  at 
one  time  a  fashionable  center  soon  became  the  habitation  of 


the  incoming  Mongolians.  With  this  third  transformation  came 
the  name  of  Waverly  Place.  The  gay  characters  who  had  flitted 
here  for  over  a  decade  sought  other  pastures,  and  the  Chinese 
took  possession  of  the  street.  With  the  date  of  their  advent  we 
enter  upon  the  second  part  of  this  sensational  drama. 

Under  the  shadows  of  two  cathedrals,  Grace  and  St.  Mary!s, 
stood  the  cottage  where  the  unfortunate  Parisienne  dwelt.  It 
had  now  passed  into  the  possession  of  the  Chinese,  who  felt 
that  the  time  was  opportune  for  the  erection  of  a  pagan  temple 
that  would  vie  with  its  stately  Christian  sisters,  gracefully  and 
strikingly  imposed  upon  the  terrace  beyond. 

In  the  removal  of  this  cottage  was  unearthed  a  box  con¬ 
taining  title  deeds  to  valuable  property  in  Paris  from  Marie  Banier 
to  her  son,  Perrier  Banier,  and  a  certificate  of  deposit  for  a 

t 

princely  sum  of  money  in  bank.  This  information  soon  reached 
Paris,  where  it  was  learned  that  the  legacy  of  her  early  love 
had  now  grown  to  man’s  estate.  By  the  accidental  discovery 
of  these  papers  he  was  enabled  to  receive  this  long  buried  and 
now  resurrected  tribute  of  maternal  devotion. 

Further  along  this  street,  just  at  the  corner,  there  has  been 
erected  a  small  Protestant  church,  to  do  battle,  as  it  were,  with 
the  number  of  divinities  of  the  heathen  Pantheon  ensconced 
along  the  line,  a  Lilliput  among  the  Brobdinags.  A  few  Chinese 


aA'  v 


Q.  Viev  of  f^artlett  Aliev- 

(Lao^inor  Soutl)  from  Pacific  Avenue.) 


Ross  AUe^. 

(From  Washington  Street,  Booking  North.) 


under  its  influence  have  dared  to  emancipate  themselves 
from  conventional  mannerisms,  and  enthusiastically  seek 
proselytes  even  at  the  very  doors  of  the  sanctuaries 
where  the  orthodox  Chinese  worship.  No  one  but  a 
person  who  has  lived  in  China  can  form  any  idea 


of  the  hindrances  in  the  way  of  christianizing  ^ 
the  native  residents.  Three  things  are  responsible  for 
this,  says  a  recent  convert,  “  the  worshiping  of  ancestors  of 
idols,  and  the  fear  of  the  Chinese  that  the  Christians  wish  to 
destroy  the  native  customs  and  traditions,  and  eventually 
enthrall  them.”  Filial  reverence  and  obedience  are  characteristic 
traits  of  the  Chinese.  These  sentiments  extend  beyond  the  grave; 
so  that,  when  parents  die,  prayers  are  addressed  to  them  as 
guardian  spirits.  By  them  the  subordination  of  individual  rights 
to  those  of  the  family  is  regarded  as  a  fundamental  and  irrev¬ 
ocable  principle;  hence  every  Chinaman,  in  forsaking  paganism, 
must  obtain  the  consent  of  his  family  if  he  wishes  assurance 
from  future  proscription.  Every  divinity  is  endowed  with 
certain  characteristics,  and  the  embodiment  of  some  special 
function  or  attribute  of  humanity,  the  unvarying  belief  in  the 
existence  and  personality  of  their  deities,  upon  whose  active 
agency  their  votaries  rely,  is,  without  doubt,  the  underlying 
principle  of  their  superstition. 


The  Chinaman  is  a  great  believer  in  spirits,  particularly 
those  with  an  evil  disposition.  His  upper  world  is  peopled  by 
Gods  and  his  under  world  by  multitudes  of  devils.  Incense  is 
freely  burned  before  the  household  shrine,  and  fervent  and  divers 
prayers  are  continually  offered  to  rid  their  houses  of  these 
unwelcome  visitors. 

Among  the  peculiar  features  of  paganism  there  is  none 
more  revolting  than  the  cruelty  practiced  upon  young  girls, 
based  upon  a  system  of  slavery.  It  is  a  prolific  source  of  cor¬ 
ruption  and  degradation,  and  has  had  much  license  in  this 
quarter. 

The  profound  pity  felt  for  these  unhappy  victims,  who, 
from  ignorance,  adverse  conditions  of  heredity  and  environment, 
are  being  continually  bought  and  sold,  smuggled  on  steamers  or 
over  the  boundary  lines,  has  awakened  an  effort  to  abridge,  if 
not  actually  suppress,  this  traffic,  which  prevails  in  all  the  heart¬ 
less  cruelty  which  characterized  that  condition  at  the  close  of 
the  Roman  Republic. 

By  the  untiring  and  zealous  efforts  of  a  missionary  lady, 
who  has  devoted  nearly  a  score  of  years  to  ameliorating  the 
condition  of  her  sex,  there  have  been  rescued  from  brothels  five 
hundred  or  more  Chinese  girls,  whose  ages  range  from  nine  to 
fifteen  years,  and  the  purchase  price  of  whom  aggregated  over  a 


million  dollars.  They  have  been  comfortably  housed,  their 
religious  instruction  fostered,  their  physical  condition  toned,  and 
every  possible  effort  enlisted  to  lift  them  up  to  a  sphere  of 
honor  and  usefulness.  By  the  aid  of  these  simple  elements,  the 
employment  of  time,  with  a  certain  customary  and  moral  dis¬ 
cipline  controlled  by  kindness,  a  great  work  has  been  done, 
and  many  of  them  are  now  the  happy  wives  and  mothers  of 
pleasant  homes. 

The  law  in  regard  to  this  slave  traffic  is  specific  and  exact¬ 
ing  ;  but  there  is  a  spirit  prevalent  in  this  neighborhood  which 
the  French  call  “  l' esprit  de  localiteP  which  often  warps  the 
judgment  of  the  most  upright  and  honest  men,  and  when,  by 


the  assistance  of  legal  techni¬ 
calities,  this  spirit  is  coupled  to 
a  writ  of  habeas  corpus  proced¬ 
ure,  to  be  subsequently  investi¬ 
gated  by  the  Federal  courts,  the 
law  becomes  elastic,  and  the 
J  victim  is  permitted  to  land,  to 


be  as  readily  delivered  to  some 


execrable  hag  of  moral  uncon¬ 


sciousness  and  indifference  of 
feeling,  of  insolent  manners 


v 


and  savage  temper,  for  a  moneyed  consideration  varying  from 
five  hundred  to  four  thousand  dollars,  according  to  the  girl’s 
age  and  personal  attraction. 

Should  the  child  be  one  of  tender  years,  she  is  now  made 
to  perform  menial  drudgery,  and  is  frequently  treated  not  only 
unkindly,  but  cruelly.  At  maturity  the  slave  girl  becomes  more 
valuable.  Here  for  a  time  she  is  kept  under  strict  surveillance ; 
her  avocation  and  environment  leave  no  opportunity  for  intel¬ 
lectual  effort.  She  is  bedecked  with  gaudy  trinkets,  zealously 
guarded,  and  now  begins  a  slavery  of  many  years  and  of  a 
fiercer  kind.  Her  mind  generally  is  dethroned  under  her  former 
treatment,  and  she  generally  subserves  the  will  of  her  owner. 
The  best  part  of  her  life  is  wasted  amidst  unfriendly  and 
degraded  companions ;  she  finds  no  comfort  in  life,  nothing  to 
love,  nothing  to  hope  for ;  family  and  friends  are  to  her  as 
though  they  were  not,  and  very  few,  if  any,  have  any  recollec¬ 
tion  whatever  of  parents  or  relations. 

It  is  not  indeed  strange,  when  the  door  is  closed  and 
the  key  turned  on  these  deluded  creatures  in  a  strange  land, 
that  they  occasionally  awake  from  their  terror  to  a  realism  of 
the  condition  which  deprives  them  of  bodily  and  mental  free¬ 
dom,  and  attempt  to  break  from  this  bondage  and  tlee  at  the 
peril  of  their  lives  to  the  refuge  home  provided  for  them  by  a 
kind  and  humane  association. 


: 


«■ 


* 

- 


.  * 

>*» 


• . 


■  # ■ 


* 


Whenever  it  becomes  known  that  there  is  a  girl  of 
legal  age  thus  environed,  efforts  are  made  to  ascertain 
.the  opinion  she  entertains  as  to  the  desirability  of  her 
removal.  It  is  known  that,  in  their  powerless  and  help- 
dess  condition,  so  much  insincerity  has  been  forced 
upon  them,  and  such  frightful  pictures  presented  to 
their  ignorant  minds  of  the  brutalities  and  enslavement 
practiced  by  Christians,  that  it  becomes  necessary  to 
free  her  mind  from  these  prejudices,  as  initiatory  measures  to 
a  successful  rescue.  A  careful  diagram  of  the  building  is  made, 
and  every  known  avenue  of  escape  guarded,  when  a  raid  is 
attempted,  and  the  rescue  party,  under  police  surveillance, 
ultimately  removes  the  trembling  victim  from  her  surroundings, 
amid  a  crowd  of  infuriated  “high-binders,”  human  hyenas, 
whose  fierce  anathemas  and  savage  threats  fill  the  air.  Fre¬ 
quently,  however,  notwithstanding  all  of  these  carefully  planned 
measures,  the  victim  is  quickly  spirited  away  through  some 
secret  trap  or  panel  leading  into  an  underground  or  overhead 
network  of  passages,  to  be  again  secreted  until  the  fescue  is 
abandoned  or  given  up  in  despair. 

There  is  something  of  interest  to  be  learned  in  every  square 
foot  of  these  old  precincts.  For  years  I  thought  I  knew  all 
that  there  was  to  know  about  this  quarter,  but  every  additional 


tour  of  inspection  reveals  some  new  interest ;  and  the  traveler 
who  simply  pays  a  flying  visit  here  has  only  sipped,  not  drunk , 
at  this  fountain.  He  must  explore  for  himself  the  various 
regions  of  interest,  which  will  open  to  him  a  boundless  source 
of  wonder  and  study ;  for  in  this,  one  of  the  finest  parts  of  the 
town,  and  the  oldest  district,  occupying,  1  may  say  almost 
profaning,  in  many  respects,  its  once  stately  homes,  is  deeply 
intrenched  and  emphasized  a  condition  of  society  and  civiliza¬ 
tion  of  which  its  adaptability  to  circumstances  is  our  marvel, 
and  the  fruit  of  thousands  of  years  of  abnegation  and  Oriental 
estrangement. 

There  are  no  words  wherein  to  describe,  no  measure 
wherewith  to  measure,  the  subtleties  and  eccentricities  which, 
living  constantly  in  a  thickly  settled  section  like  this,  and 
among  these  people,  is  apt  to  generate,  where  so  many  people 
are  crowded  into  so  little  room,  where  the  aggregate  of  suffer¬ 
ing  must  be  multiplied  by  every  individual  tale  of  woe;  yet 
how  unlike  the  east  side  of  New  York,  the  tenement  districts 
of  London  or  of  Paris.  The  traveler  here  can  go  where  he 
listeth,  and  at  whatever  hour  he  pleaseth.  He  is  not  disturbed 
by  beggars  nor  by  drunken  brawls  ;  :nor  is  he  liable  to  the 
dangers  which  bestrew  his  path  among  Christians  in  either 
of  the  places  mentioned.  He  is  free  from  molestation,  ridicule 


I 


